Up, Up and Away. a holiday in Tenerife

by Jonathan Appleby

My brother and I have been keen windsurfers for many years, but family commitments and work have both forced and allowed us to be more selective about where we get wet in winter.  It was thus that I found myself in El Medano, Tenerife for the 3rd time in my life.  Previous experience had suggested that despite the glossy magazines, the wind could not be guaranteed and that it was well worth taking along alternative entertainment.  It was actually on a windless day some four years ago that my interest in cycling began.  My brother and I hired mountain bikes and made the ascent of El Tide, the volcano on Tenerife, which is actually the highest mountain in Spain.  On this return trip, I had packed my race bike, and was set upon once again tackling the 3800m mountain (the road only goes to some 2500m though).

The climb begins with a six km warm up along a flat road running parallel to the beach.  I had decided to set off early in order to try and make the majority of the ascent before the cloud could build but was unlucky as that day there was already quite a thick covering.

Past the airport the road turns inland, signifying the start of the climb.  A climb that continues for the next 23 miles, and over which the road gains 2100m of height. There are two towns on the way to the top, San Miguel and Villa Flora.  Uncannily they are equidistant apart such that there is exactly 1 hrs riding between each.  The total climb therefore takes approximately three hours.  The first hour to San Miguel is on quite a busy road.  I remembered that the previous time I had ridden up the hill I had run out of gears on the hired mountain bike.  My main concern was therefore that the 39-26 I had with me was going to be too high a ratio to maintain for three hours.  This suspicion was reinforced as I reluctantly dropped into my bottom gear within a few kilometres of leaving the coast.The owner of the flat were I was staying had mentioned that there had been a particularly high level of rainfall in the Canary Islands this year.  Thus, the lower slopes of the volcano were covered in thick green vegetation and flowers. Everything was going by rather nicely until I passed San Miguel, which is where the road kicks up.  The hour between San Miguel and Villa Flora is tough, the gradient enough to force me out of the saddle for long periods.  Although laid at least four years ago, the tarmac is beautiful and smooth leaving only the sound of my heavy breathing for company as I hauled myself upward at a slowly decreasing speed. 

I stopped in Villa Flora for a 10 minute break, and to get some more water.  I’d guess that the village is about 1400m above sea level, which should translate at about 14 centigrade lower temperature than the start point of the climb.  Hence, I soon started to feel the cold and set out again on the final section.  Once out of Villa Flora the road enters a national park.  At this point there is no ground vegetation, only a dense pine wood, which can provide welcome cover from the sun.

Past the airport the road turns inland, signifying the start of the climb.  A climb that continues for the next 23 miles, and over which the road gains 2100m of height. There are two towns on the way to the top, San Miguel and Villa Flora.  Uncannily they are equidistant apart such that there is exactly 1 hrs riding between each.  The total climb therefore takes approximately three hours.  The first hour to San Miguel is on quite a busy road.  I remembered that the previous time I had ridden up the hill I had run out of gears on the hired mountain bike.  My main concern was therefore that the 39-26 I had with me was going to be too high a ratio to maintain for three hours.  This suspicion was reinforced as I reluctantly dropped into my bottom gear within a few kilometres of leaving the coast.

The owner of the flat were I was staying had mentioned that there had been a particularly high level of rainfall in the Canary Islands this year.  Thus, the lower slopes of the volcano were covered in thick green vegetation and flowers. Everything was going by rather nicely until I passed San Miguel, which is where the road kicks up.  The hour between San Miguel and Villa Flora is tough, the gradient enough to force me out of the saddle for long periods.  Although laid at least four years ago, the tarmac is beautiful and smooth leaving only the sound of my heavy breathing for company as I hauled myself upward at a slowly decreasing speed. 
I stopped in Villa Flora for a 10 minute break, and to get some more water.  I’d guess that the village is about 1400m above sea level, which should translate at about 14 centigrade lower temperature than the start point of the climb.  Hence, I soon started to feel the cold and set out again on the final section.  Once out of Villa Flora the road enters a national park.  At this point there is no ground vegetation, only a dense pine wood, which can provide welcome cover from the sun.

Gradually the road climbs through the mist.  It is a strange sensation feeling hot, but seeing your breath condense in the air as you ride.  The cloud is great to ride up through because as you start to break through the upper surface it is like somebody turning on the lights.

Three hours and two minutes after setting off from the apartments I reached the view point where I had stopped four years previously.  I’m not 100% sure but I think last time I rode the climb it took me four hours so it was pleasing to see the time difference.  Rather than descending straight away, this year I decided to continue along the road in order to have a look at the volcano crater, which meant a 300 metre descent and then another five miles along a windy and dusty moonscape.

Pictures taken and tourist bit complete it was time for the descent.  Four years previously I had descended in no more than a t-shirt and shorts, which in the clouds is enough to chill you to the bone.  This year I had come prepared with a wind block, and it was very welcome.  Three hours up, 40 minutes down.  I had enjoyed myself so much that I was almost glad that there was no wind for the rest of the week and I was forced to do the whole thing again (twice – best time 2:50).